Article on Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is an oil-soluble vitamin C derivative. Vitamin C has many functions as a cosmetic ingredient, including skin lightening, promoting collagen synthesis, and inhibiting lipid peroxidation. It is derived from ascorbic acid and isopalmitic acid. Vitamin C is prone to oxidative discoloration, making it difficult to use in cosmetics. Therefore, more stable derivatives have been developed. Oil-soluble vitamin C derivatives are available as ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate. It is stable at high temperature and has good solubility in oil. Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate exhibits excellent transdermal absorption, breaking down into free vitamin C in the skin for physiological functions. Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate can be widely used in various skin care, beauty, and other cosmetics.
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, also known as Ascorbyl Tetra-2 Hexyldecanoate, is a newly developed esterified derivative of vitamin C with the highest stability of all vitamin C derivatives. It is absorbed transdermally and then efficiently converted to vitamin C; it inhibits the synthesis of melanin and removes the melanin present. Therefore, it directly activates the collagen tissue at the bottom of the skin, accelerates the production of collagen, and prevents skin aging. It also has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.
Are they the same? Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate and L-ascorbic acid
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is a derivative developed by researchers to bypass some of the ascorbic acid’s problems. Ascorbic acid is extremely sensitive to heat and light and oxidizes quickly. Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is more stable and more permeable than ascorbic acid, so it can be formulated at lower percentages and skin-sensitive pH levels while producing similar results to ascorbic acid.
Is Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate The Best Form of Vitamin C?
Yes, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is an oil-soluble derivative of vitamin C, it can be used at higher concentrations without drawbacks.
Skin benefits of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate has no biological activity: it must be converted into ascorbic acid in skin cells to benefit the skin. So basically the well-known benefits of topical ascorbic acid also apply to ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.
Research on ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate shows:
l Excellent transdermal absorption
l Inhibits intracellular tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis
l Reduce UV-induced cell/DNA damage
l Prevents lipid peroxidation and skin aging
l Good solubility in common cosmetic oils
l Stable to heat and oxidation
l Little discoloration
l Cell regeneration effect
Product features of Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is a more stable vitamin C derivative than the precursor. However, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate may change color under certain conditions. Please handle it with the same care as you handle vitamin C.
1. The pH range of the designed preparation process cannot be higher than 6.0.
2. It is recommended to use chelating agents in the formulation as chelating agents are very effective in preventing discoloration.
3. Because contact with water may cause oxidation of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, add a surfactant with long-chain polyoxyethylene to stabilize the system and strengthen the interface film.
4. Avoid prolonged exposure to heat.
Is Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Safe?
It’s safe for most skin types, unlike L-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate does not exfoliate or irritate the skin. It is well tolerated by even the most sensitive skin types. Unlike regular vitamin C, it can be used in large doses and can be used for up to 18 months without oxidation.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is also safe to use with other skincare actives, including alpha and beta hydroxy acids, retinol (and retinoids), and sunscreens (as are other vitamin C derivatives).
What products can be used with Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate?
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution can be used with most of the products except Niacinamide powder and serum.
Why do we use ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate?
The ordinary ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate solution provides excellent transdermal absorption and is efficiently converted to free vitamin C in the skin. This multifunctional ingredient inhibits tyrosinase and melanogenesis activity to brighten skin tone, protect against UV-induced damage, provide potent antioxidant properties, and support collagen synthesis.
What’s the pH of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate?
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate has been classed as a more premium form of Vitamin C and unlike ascorbic acid, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Vitamin C will not irritate the skin due it’s neutral pH of 7. This makes Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate much more of a stable formulation compared to L-Ascorbic Acid which has a lower pH which is why it can tingle and cause irritation upon application.
What’s the application Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate?
For whitening/anti-pigment dyeing products, anti-aging products, products
For sunburn prevention and anti-inflammatory/soothing products.
Suitable for oily formulations, fragrances, lotions, creams and make-up formulations.
All in all, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is a potent anti-aging, antioxidant, melanin-inhibiting, and collagen-boosting skincare ingredient with an impressive safety profile. It is more effective, safer, and more effective than the usual vitamin C preparations.