What is Alpha arbutin ？
Alpha Arbutin is a hydroquinone glycoside compound with a chemical name of 4-hydroxyphenyl-alpha-d-glucopyranoside. Which exists in bear fruit, blueberry, and other plants. It is an emerging non-irritating, non-allergi and highly adaptable natural whitening active substance. There are two structural and functional groups in the molecular structure of arbutin: one is a glucose residue; the other is a phenolic hydroxyl group. Alpha Arbutin is a white crystalline powder in physical state, soluble in methanol, ethanol, DMSO and other organic solvents.
How Alpha arbutin work?
Alpha Arbutin is a natural active substance that can quickly penetrate into the skin without affecting the concentration of cell proliferation, effectively inhibit the activity of tyrosinase in the skin, and block the formation of melanin, not by inhibiting cell growth or tyrosinase. Instead of reducing melanin production by inhibiting cell growth or tyrosinase gene expression, Alpha arbutin directly combines with tyrosinase to accelerate the decomposition and excretion of melanin, So as to reduce skin pigment deposition, remove color spots and freckles,and do not produce toxic, irritating, sensitizing and other side effects on melanocytes. At the same time, it has the effect of sterilization and anti-inflammatory.
The action process of Alpha arbutin does not produce hydroquinone, nor does it produce side effects such as toxicity and irritation to the skin and allergies. These characteristics determine Alpha Arbutin can be used as the safest and most effective raw material for skin whitening and removing color spots.
Alpha arbutin VS Beta arbutin
At present, alpha arbutin and beta arbutin are the two most commonly used in cosmetics. So, what’s the difference between alpha-arbutin and beta-arbutin?
Firstly,beta-arbutin can be made by three methods: plant extraction, plant cell culture,and chemical synthesis. While alpha arbutin is mainly produced by enzymatic synthesis (microbial fermentation).
Secondly, stability difference: Alpha Arbutin does not decompose at a high temperature of 100℃, while Beta Arbutin will decompose above 60 ℃. Under the condition of pH 5-8, Alpha Arbutin solution does not decompose, but beta Arbutin is decomposed, so The stability of alpha arbutin is better than beta Arbutin.
Thirdly, The optical rotation of Alpha arbutin is about 180 degrees, while that of Beta arbutin is about -60 degrees.
In conclusion, compared with beta arbutin, alpha arbutin has better water solubility, is heat resistant, light stable and has no cytotoxicity in a safe dose, and the effect of inhibiting melanin production is 10 times stronger than beta-arbutin. Since Alpha arbutin is a more efficient and safer whitening active substance, many cosmetic companies at home and abroad have used Alpha arbutin instead of Beta arbutin as a whitening additive.
Alpha arbutin application and dosage
Alpha Arbutin is widely used in advanced cosmetics, such as skin care products, freckle creams, pearl creams, essences, toners, masks, etc. The recommended dosage is 0.5%~2%.
Is it safe to combine alpha arbutin with other ingredients?
Alpha arbutin is inert and does not negatively react with other skincare ingredients. You can safely layer Alpha Arbutin serum with other skin care products such as Vitamin C, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic Acid, Kojic acid, Azelaic acid, Tranexamic acid and more.
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