Sepiwhite MSH is a trade name for a cosmetic skin-brightening active developed by Seppic (Air Liquide Healthcare/Seppic). Its INCI name is Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine.
The core molecule is produced by chemically combining two main components:
| Component | Source / origin | Role |
| Phenylalanine | Amino-acid feedstock, commonly manufactured by fermentation | Provides the phenylalanine portion of the molecule |
| Undecylenoyl group | Derived from undecylenic acid, an unsaturated fatty acid traditionally obtained from castor-oil processing | Provides the lipophilic fatty-acid portion |
| Sepiwhite MSH | Chemical derivative synthesized from these building blocks | Cosmetic active targeting hyperpigmentation |
1. Phenylalanine component
Phenylalanine is an aromatic amino acid. In Sepiwhite MSH, it is incorporated into the active molecule rather than being present simply as free phenylalanine.
The resulting compound is N-undecylenoyl-L-phenylalanine, also called Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine, CAS 175357-18-3. The FDA substance database confirms this chemical identity.
2. Undecylenoyl component
The other structural portion is the undecylenoyl fatty-acid-derived chain. This lipophilic portion is attached to phenylalanine to produce the amphiphilic/lipoamino-acid structure.
Thus, Sepiwhite MSH is not a mixture of phenylalanine + an α-MSH peptide. Rather, its principal active is one chemically defined lipoamino-acid molecule: Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine.
3. Natural-origin status
Seppic describes Sepiwhite MSH as 100% natural and reports a NOC (ISO 16128) >99% designation. It is also listed as COSMOS approved, Halal certified and suitable for vegan formulations.
A Japanese supplier document likewise describes the QD version as 100% plant-derived and identifies the INCI as Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine.
4. Important distinction
Sepiwhite MSH → core active → Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine
It is therefore more accurate to describe its raw-material origin as:
plant/naturally derived fatty-acid component + phenylalanine-derived amino-acid component → lipoamino acid Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine.
The commercial Sepiwhite MSH material supplied by Seppic is essentially this active ingredient; Seppic lists Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine as the INCI and recommends approximately 2% use level for the standard MSH grade.
Note: The exact botanical sources, feedstocks, and manufacturing route used for each starting raw material are proprietary; publicly available Seppic information does not specify a particular plant species as the source of the phenylalanine or undecylenic-acid feedstock.