Sepiwhite MSH is not a plant extract that is obtained by conventional extraction. Its active ingredient is Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine (N-undecylenoyl-L-phenylalanine), a synthetic/chemically produced lipoamino acid derived from the combination of phenylalanine and an undecylenoyl fatty-acid moiety. Seppic identifies Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine as the INCI ingredient in Sepiwhite™ MSH.
1. What is actually obtained?
The principal molecule is:
Undecylenoyl-L-phenylalanine
- CAS: 175357-18-3
- Molecular formula: C₂₀H₂₉NO₃
- Molecular weight: ~331.4 g/mol
- IUPAC: (2S)-3-phenyl-2-(undec-10-enoylamino)propanoic acid
It is produced by chemical acylation of L-phenylalanine with an undecylenoyl-derived acyl group, rather than being extracted intact from a botanical source.
2. General manufacturing concept
At a high level, production involves:
L-phenylalanine + undecylenoyl/acyl precursor → Undecylenoyl-L-phenylalanine
The resulting lipoamino acid is then purified and converted into the appropriate commercial form. The molecule combines:
- the phenylalanine amino-acid portion, and
- a long-chain C11 unsaturated fatty-acid portion.
This amphiphilic structure is what gives it its characteristic lipoamino-acid properties.
3. Is it “naturally extracted”?
Seppic currently describes Sepiwhite MSH as a 100% natural active ingredient, with an ISO 16128 natural-origin content claim of >99%. However, this should not be interpreted as meaning that the finished Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine is simply extracted from a plant.
In other words:
Natural-origin raw materials → chemical combination/transformation → purified lipoamino acid → Sepiwhite MSH
This distinction is important when discussing “extraction.”
4. Evidence from patents
A Seppic-related patent identifies Sepiwhite MSH specifically as N-(ω-undecylenoyl)phenylalanine and describes it as a lipoamino acid. Another patent describes formulations containing the material, rather than treating it as a botanical extract.
Therefore, a conventional process such as water extraction, ethanol extraction, solvent extraction, or plant maceration is not the appropriate way to obtain Sepiwhite MSH.
Simplified production pathway
L-Phenylalanine
↓
N-acylation with an undecylenoyl precursor
↓
Undecylenoyl-L-phenylalanine
↓ purification / quality control
Sepiwhite MSH active
The commercial Sepiwhite MSH product is standardized around Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine, with Seppic listing a recommended use level of 2% for the standard product.
Bottom line: Sepiwhite MSH is better described as a natural-origin, chemically synthesized lipoamino-acid active, not as an extract. The exact industrial synthesis, purification conditions, yields, and proprietary process parameters are not disclosed on Seppic’s public product page.